Paper Tips

How to Decide: 4-color vs. Spot Color

By Nani Paape

How do you determine whether four-color process printing will work for your design or project? Here are some tips to help you decide.

In four-color process printing, all colors are printed in dots, in the four process-color inks. The four process colors are cyan (C), yellow (Y), magenta (M), and black (K). (Why K? Because if it was B, some people might think B stood for blue?) In traditional offset printing, those dots of color form rosettes, like the ones here. Each color of dots is printed at a different screen angle.

C, M, Y & K dots form rosettes in standard screening *

The easiest way to understand four-color process is by looking at the cartoons in the Sunday paper. The dot pattern is printed so coarsely on the newsprint that you can see all the dots.

Squint at this image to see how your eyes translate the dots into smooth colors.
Printed dots are usually finer than these.

 

Notice how your eye interprets the dots as continuous colors. It’s like magic. If you have a magnifier or loupe, you can look at any printed page to see whether it’s printed in dots or solid inks.

Digital printing does not always create a rosette pattern. Some digital presses create a dithered (scattered or sprayed dot) pattern that looks more random, similar to inkjet printing.

  • Four-color process printing is necessary if your design includes full-color photographs.
  • Areas of color that look like a solid, single color can be created from CMYK dots. These are called four-color builds. Some greens, browns, oranges, and pastels are hard to reproduce as builds.
  • On a digital or offset press, big solids can turn out uneven, but some digital presses are more likely to produce pronounced stripes called banding.
  • Fine lines, especially curved ones, can look jagged in four-color process printing, since each line must be comprised entirely of four colors of dots. A line weight of 1 point or greater will usually be OK. No, a 0.5-point line will not be OK. (My favorite designers love 0.5-point lines!)

Considering Spot or Solid Colors
Spot or solid colors are individual colors pre-mixed to a set recipe or formula. The Pantone Matching System (PMS) is the dominant standard for spot-color formulas in the United States.

A solid color is identified by name, such as “Pantone 485.” The standard mixing colors used in the spot color formulas are shown below.

The “recipe ingredients” colors for mixing spot colors

 

If consistent color matching is important for the success of your design, spot colors may be the way to go. If you need to use fewer than four ink colors on press, you might also be happy to discover that it will be cheaper than digital printing!

  • Solid colors are an especially good choice for brand standard colors in a logo.
  • Spot or solid colors are also best for tiny type, tiny reverse type, and those precious 0.5-point lines.
  • Spot colors often look cleaner and brighter than four-color builds.
  • If your design includes large areas of tints or percentages of a color that must match from one spread to the next, using spot colors will make that easier to accomplish.

Depending on the press used, a full-page solid or flood may require two passes or layers of a spot color to achieve rich, even coverage. This technique is called a double-bump or double-hit.

Doing Tower Math

5-tower (5-color) 28-inch offset press

 

Each ink color used on an offset press requires a separate ink unit or tower. Mid-size presses often have five to six towers, and small ones can have as few as one or two.

Digital presses work a little differently, but most of them print only in the four process colors, in ink or toner. (The newest HP Indigo presses can also print a limited selection of spot colors.)

Each pass for a double-bump requires a separate tower.

OK, so here’s where Tower Math comes in. For this example, pretend we have access to this five-tower press. Let’s say your design includes full-color photos. You’ll need four towers for them – C, M, Y, and K.

What if you want to add a spot green? That’s one more tower. Then you want a spot varnish over the photos. Oops! 4 + 1 + 1 = 6!  Too bad, you already used all available towers at five! The spot green would need to be a process build instead, or you’d need a press with more units/towers.

Not to make things more confusing, but it’s important to know that many presses are equipped with a coater, which is not the same thing as a tower. Coaters are used to apply flood coatings, such as varnish or aqueous coatings. Printers often describe their press as, “five-color plus coater.” If a coater is part of the equation, it changes the tower math, usually for the better!

Disaster Avoidance Tips
You’d be surprised how many people don’t consider the design’s end use from the beginning.

For example, if you plan to print a quick, small run on a digital press, design with its limitations in mind, avoiding big solids or adding noise or pattern to them to de-emphasize banding, and fattening up rules to lessen jaggies.

Or if you know that your design will be reproduced in magazines – nearly always printed in four-color process – be sure to select colors that will reproduce well as builds.

So how do you do that? On the Pantone Formula Guide fan, pick colors with four little dots at the bottom, just below the Pantone number. That’s your clue that Pantone thinks the color can be successfully reproduced as a build.

Note the four-dot secret code! **

 

Then check a Pantone Bridge, the fan that shows the solid color side-by-side with its build equivalent. You’ll be amazed at how poorly some solids can be interpreted as four-color builds.

Warning: Some builds suck. **

 

If you don’t own a set of these guides, your printer may let you look at his. But it is worth having a kit of the basic Pantone fans in your studio. Think of the expense as a $300 disaster avoidance insurance policy.

Do not go by how colors look on your monitor! Printed color and RGB color are not the same, and most monitors are not calibrated anyway. You’ll need to look at proofs (for CMYK) and drawdowns (for spot color) to see how the ink colors will really look on paper.

Before deciding whether to print with CMYK or spot color inks, it’s wise to review samples produced with the method and the press you are considering. Did designs with elements similar to yours print well?

Examine the samples for variations in hue, even saturation and coverage on solids, smoothness of fine lines. And of course, talk with your print reps and discuss your design with them.

When it comes to color reproduction, there are myriad factors to consider. I’ve been able to cover just some of them here, but I hope you will find this post helpful.

———-

Copyright 2009 Nani Paape. This article reprinted with permission of the author.

Nani is a marketing communications specialist at GeoEngineers, an earth sciences and technology consulting firm, where she continues her mission of writing about complex processes in ways that make them more accessible to everyday people. To read more of her printing stories, see her website.

* Rosette image created by Astute Graphics and used in accordance with their copyright provisions. ** Pantone Bridge and PMS 1817 images used by permission of Pantone.

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7 Responses to How to Decide: 4-color vs. Spot Color

  1. K stands for “Key” in CMYK

  2. The use of FM/Stochastic screening eliminates rosettes and allows for very small screened type an .5 point screened rules. Flat screen tint builds look as if printed with a spot color.
    As Suzette noted, “K” in CMYK printing stands for “Key” as it is typically the first ink down.

  3. Nani,
    I enjoyed reading your post. Looks like this was a post that was originally written in 2009, so maybe that explains a couple of points I respectfully disagree with. One, you mention that if the job has less than 4 colors it will be cheaper to print conventional with spot colors vs digital. That is not true. We print many jobs in 4c process that are cheaper than 2c PMS jobs due to the efficiencies of our Indigo digital press. You also mention that big solids are a problem. Not on the Indigo. The Indigo prints beautiful solids, and many of my design clients are in love with the Indigo. They can’t believe the results they are getting on super high end jobs. I bring this up because I know for a fact that many graphic designers are still unaware of the advancements of Indigo digital printer. They are used to the bandy and waxy look of toner based digital printing. I see it every day when I meet with a new designer or introduce one of my current clients to the Indigo. The reaction is always the same–shock and amazement that the samples they are looking at are digitally printed. I’m on a personal mission to educate the Chicago graphic design community that Indigo digital printing is amazing and the quality isn’t sacrificed just because it’s digital. I really do believe if more designers knew about the Indigo and it’s superior quality that they would be less hesitant to print more stuff digitally on the Indigo. Hence, my educational crusade :)

    Dean

  4. Nani Paape says:

    Hi Suzette, Gordon and Dean, Thank you for your comments. I love learning that “key” is what K stands for!

    Gordon, it’s true, stochastic screening can be a good option. Not every printer offers it, though, so I believe it’s still important to know the issues that can arise in the more widely used conventional screening. I’ve had especially good results with stochastic when the designer wanted to overprint a tint of silver over 4CP. It eliminated moire’ entirely.

    Dean, thanks for the Indigo pitch. I’m glad to hear of both the competitive pricing and the advances in Indigo’s final product.
    The comparative cost will depend on the printer in question. I always advise discussing job requirements, options and costs with a trusted print rep to be well informed on the best fit for one’s specific project and budget.

    I printed my last Indigo job within the last year and I agree that it showed significant improvement over earlier generations. However, banding is not dead, in my experience. I’ve had good results with a Canon digital press as well, which can produce a flat, non-toner-looking result. That said, there’s no substitute taking the earliest opportunity to review samples printed on the actual equipment you are considering for your job, BEFORE getting too far down the design path!

  5. Rick Rys says:

    It’s important to note that there is no ‘generic’ CMYK color space. Like RGB, CMYK is ‘device dependent’, meaning each device will have it’s own native CMYK color space. LAB color is device independent meaning the color is absolute. Using best practices in color management will give you the best possible match with your intended output device.

    I can see the day when everything is CMYK, albeit with the right profile for the respected device. If your printer cannot provide you with a CMYK color profile for their output device, run!

    Remember that a printing press invokes subtractive color theory (subtracting light).

    When was the last time you spec’d Pantone colors for your monitor (additive color)?

    Find a printer that prints to their own custom CMYK profile and not SWOP. SWOP has been around for over 30 years. We as printers can do better than 30 year old technology. Unfortunately most printers don’t understand color management -how RGB converts to CMYK- and employ the lowest common denominator for color reproduction….

    Gordon is right. Find a printer who prints with stochastic screens. Stochastic screening simulates Pantone colors better than any other printing method available with a larger color gamut…

    Rick

  6. Muhammad Ahmed says:

    Can anyone help me??

    I want to know the formula for printing “Pantone 485″ on sportswear.

    Will be grateful on reply.

    Regards

  7. Nani Paape says:

    Ric, printers have been telling me for 20 years that color management is the god and future of offset printing, and everything will be printed in CMYK. It has not yet come to pass, and is not always an option for smaller projects. It’s still important to understand the basics I discussed.

    I agree that getting a printer’s profile is a very good thing to do, and something I’ve done on annual report projects, but it’s only helpful if the designer or electronic production artist knows what to do with it or the printer is ready to supply the technical support that may be needed.

    I maintain that simulating Pantone colors with CMYK is not always the best choice, for the reasons I discussed, especially keeping the color consistent across forms. Too often, adjusting other elements on one form affects that color and throws off the match to the next.

    Muhammed, the mixing formula for PMS 485 is 8 pts Pantone Yellow, + 8 pts Pantone Rubine Red.

    Finally, a longtime print rep friend tells me that black is far from always the first color laid down in CMYK, especially on uncoated stocks. He asserts, “Ink manufacturers mix and sell a ton of what’s called ‘Last down Black,’ specifically formulated to print on the tail head closest to the sheet delivery–mixed with the lightest tack factor of the four colors. With the popularity of heavy-coverage CMYK designs on uncoated stocks, I suspect the ink boys are selling a lot of Last Down Black these days.”
    -Nani

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